Halfway between Milan and Genoa and motorway junction between Turin and Piacenza Tortona it remains the ideal place to stop and appreciate its history, art and cuisine.
Derton. Dertona, Terdona, Tortona: these few words summarise the history, which is well over two thousand years old, of the town of Tortona, which, unfortunately, has been unable to preserve all the testimonies of a glorious past.
From simple village of a Ligurian tribe to Roman colony (2nd century B.C.), then "illustrious town" remembered by the Greek geographer Artemidorus (100 B.C.) and inserted by Plinus among the noble oppida of the 9th Regio of which it became important business centre and pivotal point for the via Fulvia (to reach the Gallie), via Postumia (from Genoa to continue towards Placentia (Piacenza), Cremona and Aquileia) and via Emilia which put it into contact with Aquae Statiellae (Acqui) and Vada Sabatia (Vado Ligure).
The (Walls ) of the Roman castrum on the hill which overlooks the town and the remains of numerous and [risorsa id="ce97b19a7172b296ead1be8b11b398e6"]imposing tombs[/risorsa] of the Imperial age placed at the northern suburbs bear witness to those centuries which saw the killing of the Emperor Majorian (October 461 A.D.) close to the town, in the period of decadence.
Overcome the so-called "dark ages" Terdona, now free municipality linked to the ancient alliance with Milan, courageously opposed Emperor Fredrick Barbarossa succumbing after a short-lived siege (1155). Of that tormented period remains the precious relic of the collegiate church of Santa Maria dei Canali, already existent in 1151 which though reworked over the centuries maintains all the charm of the Romanesque period.
Palazzo Guidobono with exquisite coffered ceilings partially decorated with portraits, coats of arms and allegorical motifs, the medieval house on Corso Leoniero and the house called del Capitolo remain as evidence of a period of growth that culminated with the dominion of Cristina of Denmark, wife of the last Duke of Milan, nephew of Charles 5th and lady of Tortona (1579-1590).
The imposing and massive structure of the Cathedral , rich in works of art and recently restored, just like the bishop’s palace and the portico of the SS.ma Annuziata take us back to those years full of urban transformations result of military needs that led Tortona to become one of the first strongholds of the Duchy of Milan first and of the Kingdom of Sardinia later. Precious testimonies of the Baroque period are still visible in the 17th century Oratory of San Rocco and in the 18th parish church of San Giacomo.
If the 19th century saw the town deprived of its beautiful 18th century fort and of numerous holy buildings, the result of dastardly choices of Bonaparte, it relives in the small and delightful Civic Theatre (1836-38), which is still the centre of the cultural life today. Special attention is due to the [risorsa id="e47b9fdd30c1914af397071fd99d6436"]Picture gallery[/risorsa] of the Fondazione Cassa di Risparmio di Tortona dedicated to divisionism which has made the works by Giuseppe Pellizza from Volpedo and by Nomellini, but not only, an essential reference point for art historians. A visit to the Diocesan Museum of Sacred Art, set up in one wing of the seminary, offers the possibility to have a full picture of the artistic riches of the vast dioceses (already existing in the 4th century) and admire the Codex Purpureus Sarzanensis, purple parchment gospel book (second half of the 5th - early 6th century). The Museum Orsi, set up in what remains of the industrial facilities of the famous Officine Orsi, brings the attention back to the peasant civilisation which has played a big part in the history of Tortona.
And to end this tour of the town on a sweet note there is nothing left to do but to taste the Baci Dorati of the pastry shop Vercesi of which the “Tortona-identity” is assured.
